Spa Rejuvenation: 8 Days at Ananda in the Himalayas and Ayurveda in Kovalam

Arrive at Ananda in the Himalayas

Fly into Dehradun's Jolly Grant airport, usually from Delhi, and transfer by road to Ananda, set on a 100-acre estate in the foothills above Rishikesh, around the old palace of the Maharaja of Tehri-Garhwal. The drive climbs out of the Doon valley through sal and pine forest, and the air is noticeably cooler by the time you arrive.

The rest of the day is unscheduled. Settle in, walk through the estate's gardens and let the journey's pace start to slow before treatments begin tomorrow. It helps to arrive with a clear idea of what you want from the week, whether that is rest, better sleep, help with stress or simply time away, so you can share it at your consultation.

Keep the first evening light: an early dinner, no alcohol and an early night. Evenings in the foothills can be cool from November to February, so pack a warm layer, and bring comfortable clothes for yoga and walking.

• ArrivalTransfer from Dehradun airport to Ananda
• AfternoonSettle in and explore the estate
• EveningLight dinner and early night

OvernightRishikesh, 4 nights, at Ananda in the Himalayas.

Consultation and first treatments

A consultation with Ananda's Ayurvedic physician determines your dosha, or constitution, and shapes the treatment plan for your stay. In Ayurveda, the three doshas, vata, pitta and kapha, describe the balance of qualities in the body and mind. The doctor will usually ask about sleep, digestion, energy and stress, take your pulse and look at your general health. Share any medicines you take and any conditions your own doctor knows about.

In the afternoon, enjoy your first treatment, paired with a gentle introductory yoga class. A typical first treatment is abhyanga, a full-body massage with warm herbal oils, which is meant to calm the nervous system and prepare the body for the treatments that follow. Afterwards, rest rather than rushing into the next activity, and bathe in warm water.

Meals follow a light, balanced menu designed around your plan. Many guests find the first day is when the tiredness of travel catches up with them; an early night is part of the programme.

• MorningConsultation with the Ayurvedic physician
• AfternoonFirst treatment and introductory yoga
• EveningLight dinner and rest

OvernightAnanda in the Himalayas, above Rishikesh.

Yoga by the Ganges

Rise early for a sunrise yoga session by the Ganges, followed by guided meditation, then return for a day of personalised treatments. The river here runs cold, clear and green out of the mountains, and early morning is the quietest time on its banks.

In the late afternoon, visit Rishikesh, the town that earned its name as the yoga capital of the world, and where the Beatles studied meditation in 1968 at an ashram that is now a ruin you can visit, its meditation huts covered in murals. Walk among the ashrams and across the river by the Ram Jhula footbridge, watching for the monkeys that patrol it, and browse the stalls selling rudraksha beads and books on yoga.

At dusk, watch the evening Ganga aarti at Parmarth Niketan, with lamps, chanting and offerings to the river. Arrive a little early to find a place on the steps. Dress modestly, and note that Rishikesh is a vegetarian and alcohol-free town.

• SunriseYoga and meditation by the Ganges
• DayTreatments
• Late afternoonRishikesh ashrams and Ram Jhula
• EveningThe Ganga aarti at Parmarth Niketan

OvernightAnanda in the Himalayas, above Rishikesh.

Treatment and forest walks

A full day continuing your personalised programme, which may include treatments such as shirodhara, a steady stream of warm oil poured over the forehead, traditionally used for calming the mind and helping sleep, or a herbal steam. Some programmes also include udvartana, a brisk massage with herbal powders, or nasya, a gentle treatment in which medicated oil is applied through the nose. Your physician will explain each treatment before it begins, and you can always ask to change or skip one.

Between sessions, rest. Ayurveda puts as much weight on rest and diet as on the treatments themselves, and the oils are meant to stay on the skin for a while.

In the late afternoon, take a guided walk through the forests of the Himalayan foothills, the kind of unhurried hike that is as much a part of the reset as the treatments themselves. Paths are mostly gentle but uneven, so wear proper shoes. On clear evenings you can look down over the Ganges valley as the lights come on in Rishikesh.

• MorningTreatments
• AfternoonRest
• Late afternoonGuided forest walk

OvernightAnanda in the Himalayas, above Rishikesh.

Fly to Kerala

After a morning treatment and a farewell lunch, transfer to Dehradun for your flight south to Trivandrum, connecting via a major hub. It is a long day of travel, from the cool Himalayan foothills to the tropical tip of India, so wear layers you can peel off and keep water and something light to eat with you. Drink plenty of water on the flights; after several days of treatment you may feel more tired than usual.

Before you leave Ananda, ask your physician for a short written summary of your treatments and advice so far. It helps the doctor in Kovalam continue where the first half left off.

On arrival in Trivandrum, the warm, humid air and the scent of the sea are an instant change. Transfer to Kovalam and check in to Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra, a cliffside resort of traditional Keralite heritage cottages among coconut groves above the Arabian Sea. Have a light dinner and go to bed early.

• MorningFinal treatment at Ananda
• DayFlights to Trivandrum
• EveningArrive at Kovalam; light dinner

OvernightKovalam, 3 nights, at Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra.

Kerala-style Ayurveda

Meet the resort's Ayurvedic physician for a second consultation, this time in Kerala's own tradition, known for its thorough, hands-on style of treatment with generous amounts of warm herbal oil. Bring the notes from Ananda so the doctor can build on them rather than start again.

Your programme begins in the afternoon, likely with the signature abhyanga oil massage, in a setting that trades Himalayan mountains for sea cliffs and coconut palms. Kerala's monsoon climate and its long tradition of Ayurvedic families have made it the best-known home of these therapies. Other treatments your physician may add include elakizhi, in which warm bundles of herbs are pressed and massaged over the body, and a herbal steam to finish.

In the evening, sit out as the fishing boats head out along the coast and their lights appear on the water. The food is light Kerala cooking: rice, vegetable curries with coconut, lentils and fresh fruit, adjusted to your plan.

• MorningConsultation
• AfternoonAbhyanga and other treatments
• EveningLight Kerala dinner

OvernightNiraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra, Kovalam.

Treatment and the beach

A full, unscheduled day of treatments interspersed with time at the resort's private beach and the pool on the rocks above the sea. Start with yoga or a short meditation in the cool of the morning, then let the day follow your treatment times.

This is deliberately the lightest day of the trip, built around doing as little as possible. Swim early or late, when the sun is gentler; the Arabian Sea along this coast can have strong currents, so follow local advice and swim only when the water is calm. Between treatments, rest in the shade, drink plenty of water and avoid long spells in the sun, which works against the oils.

If you would like a short outing, the fishing harbour at Vizhinjam, just along the coast, is busy with boats in the early morning. In the late afternoon, walk along the cliffs to watch the sun go down over the sea.

• MorningYoga or meditation; treatment
• DayTreatments, beach and pool
• SunsetCliff walk

OvernightNiraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra, Kovalam.

Final treatment and fly home

After a final morning treatment and a summary from your Ayurvedic physician, with personal guidance on continuing the practice at home, transfer to Trivandrum International Airport, about 20 to 30 minutes away, for your flight. Ask for the advice in writing, and pack any herbal oils or liquid medicines in checked luggage, as liquids over 100 ml are not allowed in hand luggage. On the journey home, drink plenty of water, eat lightly and keep moving on long flights to hold on to the benefits of the week.

• MorningFinal treatment and consultation summary
• DepartureTransfer to Trivandrum airport