Southern Splendors: 14-Day South India Tour of Tamil Nadu's Temples, Hampi and Mysore

Arrive in Chennai

Your driver meets you at Chennai airport and takes you to your hotel. Chennai, formerly Madras, is the capital of Tamil Nadu and the gateway to the great temple towns of the south. It grew up around Fort St George, where the British East India Company set up a trading post in the 17th century, but the old neighbourhoods of Mylapore and Triplicane are far older.

After a long flight, keep the first day easy. Rest at your hotel, drink plenty of water and try to stay awake until a normal bedtime to help with jet lag. Your coordinator will call or message to welcome you and confirm tomorrow's start time.

In the late afternoon, if you feel fresh, walk along Marina Beach, one of the longest urban beaches in the world, where families gather at sunset among snack stalls and kites. The sea is rough and swimming is not safe. For dinner, try a first taste of South Indian food: crisp dosa, soft idli with coconut chutney and sambar, and a tumbler of strong, milky filter coffee.

• ArrivalMeet and greet at Chennai airport
• AfternoonRest
• EveningOptional walk on Marina Beach and a South Indian dinner

OvernightChennai, 1 night.

Kanchipuram silk and the Shore Temple at sunset

Drive inland to Kanchipuram, one of the seven sacred cities of Hinduism and the capital of the Pallava kings from the 6th to the 9th centuries. See the early 8th-century Kailasanatha Temple, the oldest structure in the city, and the Ekambareswarar Temple, dedicated to Shiva as the element of earth, with a gopuram nearly 60 metres high.

Visit a silk weaver's workshop to watch Kanchipuram saris, heavy with gold thread, being woven on handlooms. They remain the most prized wedding silks in South India.

In the afternoon, continue to Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram) on the Bay of Bengal, the Pallava port and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. See the five monolithic Pancha Rathas, Arjuna's Penance, one of the largest open-air rock reliefs in the world, and Krishna's Butter Ball, then end the day at the Shore Temple as the sun goes down.

• MorningKailasanatha and Ekambareswarar temples, Kanchipuram
• MiddaySilk weavers' workshop
• AfternoonPancha Rathas and Arjuna's Penance
• SunsetThe Shore Temple

OvernightMahabalipuram, 1 night, at a beach resort.

Down the coast to Thanjavur and the Brihadeeswarar Temple

Drive south along the East Coast Road, with glimpses of the sea, salt pans and fishing villages. You can stop for coffee in Pondicherry's French Quarter, with its yellow colonial houses, bougainvillea and seafront promenade, before turning inland across the Kaveri delta, the rice bowl of Tamil Nadu, a flat green country of paddy fields, canals and coconut groves. Lunch on the road is a South Indian 'meals' served on a banana leaf: rice with sambar, rasam, vegetables and curd.

Arrive in Thanjavur, capital of the Chola kings, in time for the Brihadeeswarar Temple in the late afternoon, when the granite glows gold. Completed in 1010 by Rajaraja Chola I and part of the UNESCO-listed Great Living Chola Temples, it has a 66-metre tower crowned by a capstone said to weigh around 80 tonnes, a huge monolithic Nandi bull, and Chola frescoes in the corridors around the sanctum.

It is still a working temple. Shoes are left at the entrance and the stone can be hot underfoot, so the late afternoon is also the most comfortable time to walk barefoot. Stay into the evening, when the lamps are lit and families gather on the lawns.

• MorningEast Coast Road, with an optional stop in Pondicherry
• AfternoonDrive across the Kaveri delta
• Late afternoonBrihadeeswarar Temple into the evening

OvernightThanjavur, 1 night, at a heritage hotel.

Chola bronzes, then on to Madurai

In the morning, visit the Thanjavur Maratha Palace, built by the Nayak and later Maratha rulers of the city. Its art gallery holds one of the finest collections of Chola bronzes in the world, including dancing Shivas (Nataraja) cast a thousand years ago by the lost-wax method still used by bronze casters in the region today. The Saraswathi Mahal Library preserves palm-leaf manuscripts in Tamil, Sanskrit and other languages.

Thanjavur is also known for its crafts: Thanjavur paintings, bright and decorated with gold leaf, and the bobbing-headed Thanjavur dolls sold in the shops around the palace.

Drive south to Madurai, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in India, built around the Meenakshi Temple. Check in and, after a rest, take a first walk through the streets around the temple, where flower sellers, brass shops and tailors work late into the evening. Madurai never seems to sleep; try a bun parotta or a cooling jigarthanda from a street stall before bed.

• MorningThanjavur Palace, Chola bronzes and the Saraswathi Mahal Library
• AfternoonDrive to Madurai
• EveningWalk around the temple streets and street food

OvernightMadurai, 2 nights, at a heritage hotel.

The Meenakshi Temple by day and by night

Spend the morning at the Meenakshi Amman Temple, a city within a city dedicated to the goddess Meenakshi and her consort Sundareswarar, a form of Shiva. Its 14 gopurams are covered with thousands of painted figures of gods, demons and animals. Inside, see the Hall of a Thousand Pillars and the Golden Lotus Tank, and watch the steady flow of pilgrims, priests and musicians. The inner sanctums are open only to Hindus.

In the afternoon, visit the 17th-century Thirumalai Nayak Palace with its giant columns, and the flower market, heaped with jasmine and marigold. Madurai is also a city of street food: try a jigarthanda, a cold drink of milk, almond gum and ice cream.

Return to the temple at night for the closing ceremony, when the image of Sundareswarar is carried in a silver palanquin to Meenakshi's chamber, with drums, pipes and oil lamps.

• MorningMeenakshi Amman Temple
• AfternoonThirumalai Nayak Palace and the flower market
• NightThe temple's closing ceremony

OvernightMadurai.

Fly to Bengaluru

Fly from Madurai to Bengaluru, the capital of Karnataka and India's technology hub. The flight is included in the price. Bengaluru sits on the Deccan plateau at around 900 metres, so it is noticeably cooler and less humid than the plains of Tamil Nadu.

Depending on your flight time, spend the afternoon in Lalbagh Botanical Garden, laid out in the 18th century by Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. Its Victorian glasshouse, inspired by London's Crystal Palace, hosts flower shows around Independence Day and Republic Day, and a rocky outcrop in the garden gives a view over the city. Nearby, Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace, a two-storey building of carved and painted teak, takes half an hour to see.

Or relax at your hotel before tomorrow's long drive. Bengaluru's restaurant and craft-beer scene is among the best in India if you want a night out, and the city is a good place for a classic South Indian breakfast of crisp masala dosa and filter coffee. Get to bed in good time, as tomorrow starts early.

• MorningFlight to Bengaluru
• AfternoonOptional Lalbagh Botanical Garden and Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace
• EveningFree

OvernightBengaluru, 1 night.

North across the Deccan to Hampi

Leave early for the long drive north across the Deccan plateau. Bengaluru's suburbs soon give way to open country of granite outcrops, coconut groves and fields of maize, sunflowers and millet, with wind turbines turning on the ridges. Break the journey at Chitradurga, about halfway to Hampi, where a hilltop fort of seven rings of walls sprawls over huge granite boulders. Local legend tells of Onake Obavva, a guard's wife who defended a gap in the walls with a wooden pestle against Hyder Ali's soldiers; your driver can show you the narrow opening named after her. Wear shoes with grip, as the rock is smooth.

Arrive in Hampi, via the town of Hosapete, in the late afternoon. The landscape is unlike anywhere else in India: huge rounded boulders piled into hills, paddy fields and banana plantations, and the Tungabhadra River winding through it all, with ruined temples and pavilions on every ridge. Check in and watch the light change on the rocks. Tomorrow is a full day of walking, so have an early night.

• MorningDrive north; stop at Chitradurga Fort
• AfternoonArrive in Hampi
• EveningSunset over the boulders

OvernightHampi, 3 nights, at Evolve Back Hampi or a similar resort.

Hampi's Sacred Centre: Virupaksha and the Vittala Temple

Hampi was Vijayanagara, capital of the last great Hindu empire of South India. Founded in 1336, it grew into one of the largest and richest cities in the world, admired by Persian and Portuguese visitors, until it was sacked in 1565 after the Battle of Talikota. The ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Begin at the Virupaksha Temple, which has been in continuous worship since long before the empire. Climb Hemakuta Hill behind it for the view, then follow the old Hampi Bazaar, once lined with pavilions for traders in horses, gems and spices.

In the afternoon, visit the Vittala Temple complex, the finest in Hampi. Its stone chariot, a shrine to Garuda carved to look like a temple car, has become the symbol of Karnataka, and its pillared halls are famous for the 'musical pillars' that ring when struck (touching them is no longer allowed, to protect them). Walk on to the King's Balance, where kings were weighed against gold and grain to be given to the poor.

• MorningVirupaksha Temple, Hemakuta Hill and Hampi Bazaar
• AfternoonVittala Temple and the stone chariot
• Late afternoonKing's Balance and the riverside ruins

OvernightHampi.

Sunrise on Matanga Hill, the Royal Centre and a coracle ride

Climb Matanga Hill before dawn for the sunrise over Hampi, with temple towers and boulders emerging from the mist below. The path is steep and rocky in places; your guide will judge the conditions, and the hill near your resort is an easier alternative.

After breakfast, explore the Royal Centre, where the kings lived and ruled: the Lotus Mahal, an elegant pavilion mixing Hindu and Islamic styles; the Elephant Stables, with domed chambers for the royal elephants; the Hazara Rama Temple, its walls carved with processions of horses, dancers and soldiers; the Mahanavami Dibba platform, where the king watched festivals; the stepped tank; and the Queen's Bath.

In the afternoon, cross the Tungabhadra in a coracle, a round basket boat, past bathing ghats and boulder islands. If time allows, visit the village of Anegundi, older than Hampi itself, on the far bank.

• SunriseMatanga Hill
• MorningLotus Mahal, Elephant Stables, Hazara Rama Temple and the Queen's Bath
• AfternoonCoracle ride on the Tungabhadra
• OptionalAnegundi village

OvernightHampi.

South to Mysore

The second long drive of the trip runs south across Karnataka through farming country and small market towns, with stops for coffee and a South Indian lunch along the way. Fields of sugarcane, maize and coconut alternate with granite hills and village temples, and roadside stalls sell tender coconuts, guavas and peanuts in season.

If you set off early and have the energy, break the journey at Shravanabelagola, one of the most important Jain pilgrimage sites in India. A climb of more than 600 rock-cut steps, taken barefoot, leads to the 17-metre statue of Gommateshwara (Bahubali), carved from a single block of granite in the late 10th century. It adds about two hours to the day; go in the morning or late afternoon, as the rock gets very hot.

Arrive in Mysore (Mysuru) in the evening. For over 500 years this was the seat of the Wodeyar dynasty, and it remains the cultural capital of Karnataka, known for silk, sandalwood, yoga and the Dasara festival. Have a quiet dinner and rest.

• DayDrive south across Karnataka
• OptionalGommateshwara statue at Shravanabelagola
• EveningArrive in Mysore

OvernightMysore, 3 nights, at a heritage hotel.

Mysore Palace

Visit Mysore Palace, the seat of the Wodeyar maharajas, rebuilt in its present Indo-Saracenic style and completed in 1912 after the old wooden palace burned down. Inside, see the Kalyana Mantapa (marriage hall) with its stained-glass ceiling and peacock-patterned floor, the painted Durbar Hall and the galleries of royal portraits. Shoes are left at the entrance. Go soon after opening to avoid the largest crowds.

In the afternoon, see St Philomena's Cathedral, one of the tallest churches in Asia, and the Jaganmohan Palace art gallery, with paintings by Raja Ravi Varma. Stop for a Mysore masala dosa, spread with a red chutney inside, or a piece of Mysore pak, the rich gram-flour sweet said to have been first made in the palace kitchens.

On Sundays and public holidays, the palace is lit by nearly 100,000 bulbs for about 45 minutes from 7 pm. We plan your Mysore days so you are here for it if your dates allow.

• MorningMysore Palace
• AfternoonSt Philomena's Cathedral and the Jaganmohan Palace gallery
• EveningPalace illumination (Sundays and public holidays)

OvernightMysore.

Chamundi Hill, Devaraja Market and Mysore silk

Drive up Chamundi Hill to the Chamundeshwari Temple, dedicated to the patron goddess of the Wodeyars, with views over the city. On the way down, stop at the giant Nandi bull carved from a single rock in the 17th century. If you enjoy a walk, come down part of the way on the stone stairway of about a thousand steps used by pilgrims, which passes the Nandi; your driver meets you below.

Walk through the Devaraja Market, one of the most photogenic markets in India, with pyramids of kumkum powder, jasmine garlands, bananas and betel leaves. Mornings are the best time, when the flowers are freshest. Then visit the government silk weaving factory to see Mysore silk being made (it is usually closed on Sundays), or a sandalwood oil and incense workshop.

The afternoon is free. Yoga students come to Mysore from around the world, and drop-in classes can be arranged.

• MorningChamundi Hill and the Nandi bull
• Late morningDevaraja Market and silk weaving
• AfternoonFree, or an optional yoga class

OvernightMysore.

Srirangapatna and back to Bengaluru

Drive to Srirangapatna, the island fortress in the Kaveri River from which Tipu Sultan, the 'Tiger of Mysore', resisted the British until 1799. See the Daria Daulat Bagh, his teak summer palace painted with battle scenes (the museum is usually closed on Fridays), the Gumbaz where he is buried, and the site where he fell. The town takes its name from the Ranganathaswamy Temple, a large Vishnu temple inside the fort walls that is far older than Tipu's buildings.

Bird lovers can add the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary, a few kilometres away, where a short boat ride among river islands brings you close to nesting storks, egrets and cormorants, and often to basking crocodiles. It is at its best from about December to August, depending on the nesting season.

Continue to Bengaluru on the expressway and check in to a hotel near the airport. On the way, Channapatna is known for its brightly lacquered wooden toys, an easy gift to pack. The afternoon is free for last shopping or a quiet evening before your flight.

• MorningSrirangapatna: Daria Daulat Bagh, the Gumbaz and the Ranganathaswamy Temple
• OptionalRanganathittu Bird Sanctuary
• AfternoonDrive to Bengaluru
• EveningFree

OvernightBengaluru, 1 night, near the airport.

Fly home from Bengaluru

Transfer to Kempegowda International Airport, Bengaluru, for your flight home or onward journey. Many long-haul flights to Europe and the Gulf leave early in the morning; we time the transfer to your flight, and the airport hotel keeps the drive short. If you have a later flight, there may be time for breakfast and a last stroll before you leave. Check that silk, sandalwood and other purchases are packed securely, and keep any liquids over 100 ml in checked luggage.

• DepartureTransfer to Bengaluru airport